Frequently asked questions

Usually yes. Age by itself is not the problem — moisture coming up through the slab is, and a lot of older houses here were built without a barrier underneath.

We check the slab before quoting. If the reading is high we put a barrier down first; if it is clean, nothing extra is needed.

No, it comes up constantly and we plan for it. With the garage door open the floor counts as something the neighbors see, so the board usually wants to sign off on the color first.

We bring physical samples you can submit and schedule the install once you have approval, so the floor is never done twice.

Yes, and where a space is in use during the day it is usually the sensible way to do it.

We phase the work into evenings and weekends and agree the sequence before starting, so you know exactly which areas are out of use and when.

Usually yes. Stains and old patches sit at the surface, and grinding takes that layer off before anything is applied.

What we check for underneath is moisture and structural cracking, since those decide the build rather than the appearance.

Yes. Cracks, chipped edges and failed patches are repaired as part of the preparation, not treated as an extra afterwards.

A coating does not bridge a moving crack on its own, so the repair has to happen first if the finish is going to stay flat.

You can walk on it the next day. Vehicles need longer, because tires put far more stress on a fresh coating than feet do.

We give you the exact window before we start, so you can plan where the car goes in the meantime.

Yes, the floor has to be completely clear before we start — including shelving and anything fixed along the walls.

If moving heavy items is a problem, tell us when we quote and we will build it into the plan rather than leaving it to the morning of the job.

Yes. Sealing systems stabilize the concrete surface and reduce dusting by limiting surface porosity and surface deterioration.